“The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire”, by Francesca Cartier Brickell

 

‎ 656 pages, Ballantine Books, ISBN-13: ‎ 978-0525621638

The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire by Francesca Cartier Brickell (the great-great-great granddaughter of Louis-François Cartier, the company’s founder) breaks down the history of this French institution point by point and describes how the House of Cartier became the well-known, high-end, globe-spanning name that it is today. From pearls to giant engagement diamonds to watches to all the rest, this book spans the Cartier catalog and the history behind the pieces.

Now, while I am the first to admit that The Cartiers is well-written and gives a thorough description of the Cartiers’ jewelry business succession, it must also be said that it’s just too damn easy to get distracted by other things (including other books; especially other books) when reading it. And I’m not sure why that is, either, ‘cause it’s not like Brickell has padded the book with trivial information or too many details. I think it’s because there were far too many moments in which she didn’t do history justice.

Throughout the book, Brickell wastes not a single opportunity to praise the Cartiers (none too surprising as she is a member in good standing of the extended clan). This relentless cheerleading results in an off-kilter history in which many of the problems regarding some of the family’s actions are downplayed or explained away, such as – hmmmmm, lemme see now – sending women to psychiatric sanatoriums for menopause, or the exploitation of diamond discoveries in Africa, and other events in history that were quite problematic (hate that word).

As usual, it’s not all bad; I especially love the descriptions of the people and society of interwar Europe, one of my favorite eras in history. As a wannabe historian, reading about past lives and lost cultures (even rather decadent ones) is always a thrill. And, having at one time sold several Cartier timepieces in one of my past lives, reading the history of the inspiration and development of these gorgeous devices was interesting in themselves and made me wish I had these little tidbits of knowledge back then to boost my presentation (if I had I may very well still be selling them).

Francesca Cartier Brickell gives the attentive, patient reader a thorough overview of the foundation, expansion and loss of family control of the Cartier Empire from its founding in 1847 to its incorporation in 1974. The Cartier’s corporate tagline “never copy, only create” comes out clearly in the firm’s relentless drive for beauty, timeliness and high craftsmanship, with the premium of Cartier’s creations appealing to their buyer’s psyche. Furthermore, Brickell offers insights into the motivations of the purchasers and sellers of Cartier’s product offerings over time.

However, as noted above, all is not well. I understand that The Cartiers is meant to focus on the Cartiers’ business and the personalities that built the company, but I suppose I was just a little flummoxed by contrasting one woman who was deemed insane by her husband juxtaposed to the long description about royal women praised for the amount of diamonds they could wear at once. I guess the world of haute couture is just not for me.